tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45141133304273984212024-03-05T03:53:27.473-08:00Historic and Traditional Hand Lettering by Rick JanzenTraditional Hand lettering. Painting signs for movies. hand painted signs. Scenic painting for film. Sign documentary. Ghost Signs. How to paint signs. Historic signs. Sign restoration.Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.comBlogger58125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-58685568490558522682017-01-19T11:12:00.001-08:002017-01-19T11:50:37.825-08:001912 Waterous Steam Road Roller Restoration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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What better way to begin the New Year than with the restoration of a Waterous Steam Road Roller. These machines were in service for the better part of half a century beginning around the 1904, and played a crucial roll in road construction in Canada. While these Canadian machines were made in Brantford at the Waterous Engine Works Co., they shared a striking resemblance to the Buffalo Pitts Roller, as they were built under the same license of Buffalo Steam Roller Co. of New York. However, as you can see from the illustrations, the similarities end as the pin striping designs between the two steamrollers are completely different.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you can see, the striping designs differ from the Buffalo Pitts Roller pictured below</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buffalo Pitts Roller</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjzVR0hEkrpQuhd92zI_HAJvuZImpA9rjvDB3ZwJl89HsGn_pgvr3Rkb2YA6eKKDnVDPlNvkGzEg0qQWvMOJ1D0zK2KcGhaBn8djxd8dHHd2bS7f4Nm8qlImpi13Br5SlM8wtDDr3lOI/s1600/IMG_2737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjzVR0hEkrpQuhd92zI_HAJvuZImpA9rjvDB3ZwJl89HsGn_pgvr3Rkb2YA6eKKDnVDPlNvkGzEg0qQWvMOJ1D0zK2KcGhaBn8djxd8dHHd2bS7f4Nm8qlImpi13Br5SlM8wtDDr3lOI/s320/IMG_2737.JPG" width="320" /></a> This Waterous steamroller is being restored from the ground up as part of the restoration collection for Heritage Park located in Calgary. After coming off the production line in 1912, it is believed that this steamroller was used in Fernie, British Columbia before being decommissioned and transferred to Heritage Park collection in the latter part of the 20th century. As you can see, this machine has seen its fair share of wear and tear over over the decades - almost all of the original hand lettering and pin striping has disappeared. That called for a trip out to the Reynolds museum to try to find more evidence.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Current state of Waterous steamroller</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buffalo Pitts in original condition</td></tr>
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If you are ever looking for inspiration - The Reynolds-Alberta Museum is the place to go. This place is full of eye candy - especially behind the scenes.😉 The museum was founded by Stan Reynolds. Stan owned a car lot and was notorious of trading to add to his collection. Not kidding, Stan collected everything from antique cars, to agricultural equipment, to airplanes and military paraphernalia. So much so that acres upon acres of fields were lined with rusty machines.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from inside Buffalo Pitts Roller </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behind the scenes at the Reynolds museum, this was just one of several hangers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful detailing on a fire apparatus </td></tr>
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Returning back to the Waterous steamroller, the museum had not one, but two steamrollers in their collection - one Waterous, and one Buffalo Pitts. After careful inspection of the Waterous Steam Road Roller, it was deemed that the paint job was not the original, and thus, the pin striping was not either. While the pin striping patterns on the Buffalo Pitts differed from the Waterous, it was still in quite good condition so it was a great opportunity to snap some pictures and archive the patterns.Cross referencing the original illustrations to remnants of pin striping found on the machines we were able to gauge what the original designs may have looked like. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remnants of striping on Waterous steamroller</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another image of striping pattern on spokes of Waterous</td></tr>
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With a clear vision in mind, we could return back to home to prepare the designs for the steamroller. Stay tuned for updates of the restoration process. <br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-38603636235906677342016-11-26T09:50:00.001-08:002016-11-26T10:08:38.806-08:00How to create a faux rust sign.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here's a fun little project to try. I start with a piece of
Dibond composite panel, and do a quick scratch layout, nothing fancy. I
used lettering enamel to do the copy, then let dry. Once dry, I take some
isopropyl alcohol on a rag, and rub over the letters to remove
the paint. It's a personal choice on how much you want to remove. It's also a good idea to go with the direction of the strokes, makes it look more natural. The rate the paint comes off will depend on how long it has cured. Best to do a few tests first to se how it works<br />
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The next step is to use poster paint, either One Shot poster, or Ronan Japan Color, to paint the rust around the edges and scratches on the face. For the rust colours, I use mixtures of brown / black / orange, and yellow. I just pallet mix the colours to keep it simple. I then let the sign dry for a while. If you do the next step to soon, it will remove the poster paint.<br />
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The last step is to do a few wash coats to give it the final aged look. For this step, I use paint thinner, tinted with the rust colours to do wash coats. I stand the sign vertically, and with a brush loaded with the paint thinner mix, go along the top and let it run down the face. I will alternate between the tinted thinner and clean thinner to move the wash evenly down the face sign. On a larger sign, I would use spray bottles. You can also do the same with water based paints. I just decided to use oils on this one. Hope you find this of interest. Comments welcomed. <br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-37476363421607438712016-04-16T13:14:00.004-07:002016-04-17T13:06:16.621-07:00Step by Step: Making a weathered sign with a simple technique called Block Aging.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here's a little "Step by Step" on using a simple technique called Block Aging It's a great way to get that weathered
sign look with a lot of work.. It's just one of the many techniques used in the film industry. For this type of sign, I like to use a rough plywood, or rough cut board, because of the wood texture. It's really quite a
simple process, just put paint on a wood block, drag it over the
surface, and voila, instant aged sign. This project was done
using water based paints (cheap house paint.) Except for the raw umber
age, for that I used artist acrylics. Let me know what you think.<br />
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<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><b>Step 1: </b>The raw sign blank. I like to us</span></span></span></b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">e</span></span></span><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> a rough plywood for this type of sign<b>, </b>it</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><b> </b> gives you lots of texture to work with.</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">You can also use something with a smooth surface. It just give you a different look.</span></span></span></b></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><b>Step 2: </b>After coating the blank out with a flat latex paint, it was time to do the lettering Nothing more than a quick layout, and it's time to paint. Because this Step by Step is about Block Aging, I didn't spend much time on the layout, it just shows the steps. Not that you should spent much time on a layout for this type of letter style. The brush should do all the work. </span></span><br />
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<b>Step 3:</b> It's letter time. For this step, I used latex house paint, mixed to a muted ivory colour. And a Series 2179 #10 Mack quill, to do the lettering. If you using a water based / water borne paint, make sure to use a brush that's designed for the paint.<br />
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<b>Step 4: </b>Once the paint has dried, you can start to block age. The nice part of working with water based paints, is how fast they dry. <span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">To Block Age, all you need is a block of wood. Any scrape wood
will work, although it should be smooth. I use different sized blocks,
depending on the size of pattern I want. Now the fun begins.</span></span></div>
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<b>Step 5: </b> <span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Put some paint on a larger block, And rub the blocks together. This spreads the paint evenly on the surface of the smaller block. I even managed to get through this demonstration without getting paint on my pants. </span></span>By the way, the One shot reducers in the one picture
was just on my paint cart at the time, and wasn't part of the process.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoL0SNCO-q5o0P68lGJH5u6HPL1HBWgcyVCjVr4HmVR_jrtzj4p0xIaU2iHTPVLkcbOKZmrRTRpjcyhG7ijByaQ71vpAxxGxR0tHSnBxLSO7UKFhhBnr1hXhyphenhyphen_s7f3jwtq6lGbnD2ioaw/s1600/1394354_10207665859598322_2374025555519706485_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoL0SNCO-q5o0P68lGJH5u6HPL1HBWgcyVCjVr4HmVR_jrtzj4p0xIaU2iHTPVLkcbOKZmrRTRpjcyhG7ijByaQ71vpAxxGxR0tHSnBxLSO7UKFhhBnr1hXhyphenhyphen_s7f3jwtq6lGbnD2ioaw/s400/1394354_10207665859598322_2374025555519706485_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span id="fbPhotoSnowliftViewOnApp"></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><b>Step 6: </b> Once
the block is loaded with paint, lightly drag it over the surface of the
sign. I start with the background colour to break up the
lettering. You can also mix a few different shades of greyed wood, and base colours, and repeat the process. When applying the
paint, </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">it's best the think about how a real sign would age. It really </span></span>helps to make the aging look believable. </span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><b>Step 7:</b> </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Now I add the aged wood colour. For this step, I'm using a smaller block for more control. A little goes a long ways.</span></span></div>
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<b>Step 8: </b> <span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Next step is to add a little raw umber wash to tone down the colours, and give it an old weathered look. If you were doing a bigger sign, a pump sprayer, and spritzer bottles would be used. For this sign, I used a spritzer bottle and a rag to apply the wash.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyI5y7gsIWgJAToMrG6cFrfKviTemJarkNVR95wPV2ZuY0eWYOa7gTP6CybTbcjivSXF5I8u-ogIPrSpTNd7bLOTpKI-l_1sFje-b0-XSjbG6vdB2gZHszMGuynxB6VsDbzPstHyUu1w/s1600/1934465_10207665860598347_9119372629590074399_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyI5y7gsIWgJAToMrG6cFrfKviTemJarkNVR95wPV2ZuY0eWYOa7gTP6CybTbcjivSXF5I8u-ogIPrSpTNd7bLOTpKI-l_1sFje-b0-XSjbG6vdB2gZHszMGuynxB6VsDbzPstHyUu1w/s640/1934465_10207665860598347_9119372629590074399_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> <b>The finished sign:</b> Start to finish, little over an hour. This is a fast process, and works well to create that distressed look, fast and dirty. Hope you enjoyed the step by step.</span></span></div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-33724895947870366912015-10-05T18:17:00.000-07:002015-10-20T16:17:25.847-07:00The rise in popularity of the painted Ghost Sign.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I seem to be getting more request these days to paint ghost signs in pubs, restaurants, and stores. In the film business, it's just another day at the easel or wall. Out of all the different types of sign work I do, the ghost sign is my favorite type of sign to paint. Aging a sign to look believable takes a little work to get it right, from the background colours and breakdown, to the lettering itself. I can't say I'm a big fan of crackle paint finishes, but everything has its place.<br />
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One thing that can really help to pull it off, is to start a collection of reference pictures. It's best to separate them into categories, such as various stages of aging, from the slightly aged, to the ones you can barely read. Also, signs painted on different surfaces, wood , brick, metal and such. It makes it a heck of a lot easier when you want to find a reference for the job you plan to do.<br />
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To make a believable sign, you really want to pay special attention to the brush strokes. Paint breaks down in different ways, and so does the lettering. If you pay close attention to those little details, it makes it a lot easier the paint a convincing ghost sign. If you are doing a job for a paying customer, you should really put some extra attention into the layout. Nothing spoils a good ghost sign more than a terrible layout. If your not strong at lettering, look at actual signs for reference.<br />
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If you're just doing them for fun, or for friends, it's not as important, but it doesn't hurt. Sometimes you get to design the sign, other times, you'll be working with client supplied artwork. You may feel the design could be improved on, and it doesn't hurt to make a suggestion or two. If they insist that's what they want, then that's what you paint. You could tell them their design sucks, but you probably won't be doing the job after that. Here's a few examples of some of the recent, and past jobs. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTMRVsjjlgQw5l_ouKsD2NngbrtIG0N8hkU0g6yVFA0tlA7IEkfJSy0ox-vawyXr6swjQGxX1f-c1IV3SD6UU5nrO1IDgSxLR1PQbeS8BVVugznMtqoFVBsJJ0sIqRTJrNDL-xypIqkVs/s1600/Aged-wall-sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTMRVsjjlgQw5l_ouKsD2NngbrtIG0N8hkU0g6yVFA0tlA7IEkfJSy0ox-vawyXr6swjQGxX1f-c1IV3SD6UU5nrO1IDgSxLR1PQbeS8BVVugznMtqoFVBsJJ0sIqRTJrNDL-xypIqkVs/s400/Aged-wall-sign.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Hand painted ghost sign for the TV series "Fargo" 2nd season. It was painted on a surface that was already breaking down, for real. They wanted something interesting to fill the big blank wall. I got luckily with the weather the day I was suppose to paint the sign. It was still early spring, and quite cold during the days. As luck would have it, a Chinook blew in, and it turned into a beautiful day. Thank god for Alberta Chinooks.<br />
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Painted for a local pub. They wanted that "old warehouse" look. The trick with this type of sign is to keep it simple and clean. Also, watch how strong and opaque the colours are. I tend to work with very transparent colours, then build up as needed. It's also a good idea to mute your colours, black more into a grey, and white pushed to a grey ivory. Then the sign has an aged look when you finish, and you don't have to spend time breaking it down and aging it. <br />
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Working on my favorite surface... brick. This was a job where the designer wanted to create the effect of one sign over the other. I also added a broken white wash to the brick to back up the sign. They then hung old speedway photos to add to the decor.<br />
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A close-up to show the breakdown detail. It really helps if you put a few layers of aging in the colours.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA3Zv9As43KtwhZmidUclhyphenhyphenvJeAm1ohxGTJmUTSdcMvTPkgnPbUW5gET84Y6wx5ZGrdmZVxlG8NqLKZGPCs7hEKcblGY6gq_NQ5qbJ6NXvZKdyuOL7XopS104QaX3BecLX3aWF-wgURqg/s1600/Crab-sign_aged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA3Zv9As43KtwhZmidUclhyphenhyphenvJeAm1ohxGTJmUTSdcMvTPkgnPbUW5gET84Y6wx5ZGrdmZVxlG8NqLKZGPCs7hEKcblGY6gq_NQ5qbJ6NXvZKdyuOL7XopS104QaX3BecLX3aWF-wgURqg/s400/Crab-sign_aged.jpg" width="341" /></a></div>
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Another piece for decor. New sign painted and aged to have a rustic feel. I really enjoy making this types of sign. Lets me use my limited wood working skills along with my painting skills. The crab painting looks complicated, but is really like a pen and ink illustration, just takes time and patience. I used a release before painting the background so I could remove paint at will.<br />
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Pretty straight forward lettering on a concrete wall. They wanted to fill the space with some proverb, and also have it look like its been there for a while simple and fun.<br />
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Another simple brick job. Quick to do, and very effective at filling space. The trick with this type of sign is to keep the colours muted and transparent. It's easier to add more paint than to remove it.<br />
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Sometime it's all about filling the space. They were also using the slogan in their marketing campaign. <br />
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This would be a good example of painting what the client wants. Although I could have improved on the lettering, it was part of their existing logo.What they wanted was a sign that had that old "faded metal sign" look. The sign was for a charity event at this years Sturgis Bike Rally. And from what I heard, it did it's job and raised money for a good cause. It never hurts to be part of something like that. Thanks for dropping by. And free to post a comment or send me an email if you have any questions. <br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-80006211669127398872015-10-03T13:29:00.002-07:002017-01-03T10:16:35.979-08:00And I thought it would be a regular sign shop.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Back in 1987 I started what I
thought was going to be just another sign shop. Within a short period of time, it turned into a
full blown scene shop. It wasn't long before some very talented artists
started showing up on my doorstep. It's funny how they just seem to find you. It
was a real education working shoulder to shoulder with them on a daily
bases. It was the type of education you couldn't get from school, except for the School of Hard Knocks. Keep in mind,
this was before the computers and CNCs came in in to the picture,
although the Gerber 4 was just starting to make inroads into the sign industry. Everything was done by hand, both painting and fabrication. The days where spent
pounding out backdrops, murals, signs, and props. It was a crazy time to say the least, but was also
a blast. Kind of miss those day, must be getting old.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AiKK5u3EQMaFWlwGgke43kFMuI8GH-v6r1WC9vJ4cBx34TyRVbpQH-wrHkkj7aXUhz_fqlplc8EKbCeilHO8bat9-LA6m_JjEsyxdRA1XahNTI_kK04-8p6IZ7OSWPoNj6wmwZdr0Gw/s1600/Star-trek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AiKK5u3EQMaFWlwGgke43kFMuI8GH-v6r1WC9vJ4cBx34TyRVbpQH-wrHkkj7aXUhz_fqlplc8EKbCeilHO8bat9-LA6m_JjEsyxdRA1XahNTI_kK04-8p6IZ7OSWPoNj6wmwZdr0Gw/s400/Star-trek.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Hand painted canvas panels. I believe it was 10' x 40'. It was painter for the Vulcan Space Centre. They wanted something that the tourists could have their pictures taken in front of. It was designed to have the end panels folded in, creating the illusion of being on the deck of the Star Ship Enterprise. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5E1qmUQINaSZ-bbcSxz3NPGaJckicrSWQWUPFXoVHH98nyyXhkRQpWfmXMvJemIwi772zo6DmWmD8-YIPpPYTjfkopz8w4Pmfck39pfbfpQRU00Msh_Aq-kKGvPR43jI_sOPhzBB5fs/s1600/Star-trek_close-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5E1qmUQINaSZ-bbcSxz3NPGaJckicrSWQWUPFXoVHH98nyyXhkRQpWfmXMvJemIwi772zo6DmWmD8-YIPpPYTjfkopz8w4Pmfck39pfbfpQRU00Msh_Aq-kKGvPR43jI_sOPhzBB5fs/s400/Star-trek_close-up.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">What really helps to sell</span></span> big paintings like this, is trying creating a sense of depth through the use light and shadow. If all else fails...make it look cool.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-6QxKVWm_j0u3CqCC0F3ALoye3g915yBi2COfDjcM8IWZqoE-AMlU0PbQ9afFJJi7yjx_YOiLVdc6DGLORFadpQQhtM0BO7GHedvZV-nVJ2vAx4McWQzBO-dZY3p3Cvyzmjr-VMnnqs/s1600/Sunridge-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-6QxKVWm_j0u3CqCC0F3ALoye3g915yBi2COfDjcM8IWZqoE-AMlU0PbQ9afFJJi7yjx_YOiLVdc6DGLORFadpQQhtM0BO7GHedvZV-nVJ2vAx4McWQzBO-dZY3p3Cvyzmjr-VMnnqs/s640/Sunridge-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">This project </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">was </span></span>designed to brighten up the halls after a major </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> store</span></span> pulled out out of the mall.</span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"></span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> We would come in early</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">, before the mall opened</span></span>, so we could project the layout for the day. All the layouts were done using light blue pencil crayons</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> (non photo). That way you didn't have to erase any lines as they were only visible up close. And it also kept people wondering how we could paint the images with no layout to follow. Had more than a few come up and ask.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEEmPzBWqTzStSh0P3GQODRRqzC0Ez0_mrWfE5haBY6FeQCBQI8kgQjqfwJed0oQy3ESZxCipWf0Q6BhV7lF3o6hOl1Xx7EKcJjgYu2a4amgKhH3FInqQIavkGjbOEsXBjBmg7jrCwp04/s1600/Sunridge-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEEmPzBWqTzStSh0P3GQODRRqzC0Ez0_mrWfE5haBY6FeQCBQI8kgQjqfwJed0oQy3ESZxCipWf0Q6BhV7lF3o6hOl1Xx7EKcJjgYu2a4amgKhH3FInqQIavkGjbOEsXBjBmg7jrCwp04/s400/Sunridge-2.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">You can never go wrong with a circus mural, people seem to enjoy looking at them. </span></span></span></span>As
long as you don't have a clown phobia or something.This project really
got a lot of attention people went down the hallways just to check out
the mural.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">These are made painted trade show props. It's amazing what you can do with a sona tube, and some muslin. If you sand the ribs from the spiral off, and glue muslin to the surface, you get a get a nice smooth surface to paint on.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5Yzvmb2XggANpGPH4VTwcWcOww4E6au9Sq9A1oGmiRat3rM_Q5yfyXfUg8_vWRR6XA3X1yK6BDnjxNFqQ91H-rw2r0pz5Yi6zPuBKrXCcARRC2XTNk8wesSDUUf35_IgR9B3bAsSsY0/s1600/Product-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5Yzvmb2XggANpGPH4VTwcWcOww4E6au9Sq9A1oGmiRat3rM_Q5yfyXfUg8_vWRR6XA3X1yK6BDnjxNFqQ91H-rw2r0pz5Yi6zPuBKrXCcARRC2XTNk8wesSDUUf35_IgR9B3bAsSsY0/s400/Product-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">More product displays for a trade show. All the lettering and graphics were hand painted back then. The boxes themselves, were build from cardboard. The first vinyl cutter was just starting to make it's appearance, but was still in its infancy stage. It didn't take long to see the writing on the wall. Big changes were coming to the way signs would be made, and being skilled at lettering wouldn't be so important, if needed at all.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9qReNwTjQ1vzsL07ta9IPGvocfJ7pAJitJsEKlv44ZdHi-qgCRx6SZhwrDxFM29PhX2sGE4rdBT3n2zYb89PW_CP3LfofZXaQU3lTzJCEdOsCckGPQGemD1m_OZ6PMimpXQRwc5jAuU/s1600/DC-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9qReNwTjQ1vzsL07ta9IPGvocfJ7pAJitJsEKlv44ZdHi-qgCRx6SZhwrDxFM29PhX2sGE4rdBT3n2zYb89PW_CP3LfofZXaQU3lTzJCEdOsCckGPQGemD1m_OZ6PMimpXQRwc5jAuU/s640/DC-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">This was the store front done for a baggage company. It was sculpted out of styro foam, then coated with a product call Foam Coat. The silver base coat was
water based clear, mixed with aluminum powder. Graphics were all hand
painted. There is also a tail section and mural inside the store.</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><br />
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of the sculpting was done by my brother Randy. Using a model kit
for the layout worked great, everything was to a scale, we just sized it up to full scale. I still have the
model kit, but never got around to putting it together. Maybe it could
be a winter project. Complete with Buffalo Airways graphics:)</span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrJlFTx1FF2YOwd9nKAUEiUDyyjzka8KufyIqkjcwqFRtFccNwOLCoGKcvtrAWXGPq2eyhLAlIhqSFBPWyaJafxTLXdB-xvcVPNDi42m6INTFb_9EvbyR18VljoVzPB9DMJoPRFdYvUo/s1600/JB-Baggage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrJlFTx1FF2YOwd9nKAUEiUDyyjzka8KufyIqkjcwqFRtFccNwOLCoGKcvtrAWXGPq2eyhLAlIhqSFBPWyaJafxTLXdB-xvcVPNDi42m6INTFb_9EvbyR18VljoVzPB9DMJoPRFdYvUo/s640/JB-Baggage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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the shape of the hanger, it was taken to site, and glued to the wall using wall paper paste.
It's a great way to do commercial jobs. You only need to be on
site for the install. It can be a bit of a challenge to say the least, working on site with the trades, who are also trying to get their work done. But I have seen some interest hand shadow puppets when project the layout. </span></span></div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-86007969826663712402015-10-02T13:41:00.001-07:002015-10-02T13:41:16.245-07:00Crazy jobs from the past.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Back in the early days of Streamline Studios, we did a lot of crazy stuff. But
this is one of the projects I remember the most. We use work with a
special effects company called Unreel Effects, making props, just so
they could destroy them. You never had to worry about a warranty. The
Stampeders Football Club wanted to do some kind of big western welcome
for the Argonauts, and their newest Line Receiver... Raghib "Rocket"
Ismail This is back when John Candy and Wayne Gretzky were co<span class="text_exposed_show">
owners of the team. They decided they wanted some kind of gag involving
a rocket. Before we did the job, we thought it might be a good idea to
do a test. So we made a small rocket pod, and blew the hell out of it in
the parking lot behind the shop. We were like a bunch of little kids
that had just smashed the neighbors window, running and hiding in the
shop. Nowadays I would be writing this from a jail cell. But things were
different back then. Funny thing is, the cops didn't even show up.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRLkKEr4vcwfEY98rtfg9KaeMLULSwwrKpx0wh2G0XwV2mgYGEXxuBN5KMK148XVHHYZgPeN7suAaq3oLNM3ZpDbOeOi4QL3JCHgF3DJM1hBPf5aLM4OQ8DQFv-N6uWD7_be5Fu8Zl8Y/s1600/Rocket-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRLkKEr4vcwfEY98rtfg9KaeMLULSwwrKpx0wh2G0XwV2mgYGEXxuBN5KMK148XVHHYZgPeN7suAaq3oLNM3ZpDbOeOi4QL3JCHgF3DJM1hBPf5aLM4OQ8DQFv-N6uWD7_be5Fu8Zl8Y/s320/Rocket-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br />Setting
up before the game. Jim from Unreel Effects, is reassuring the fellow
from the stadium that everything will be just fine. Thought I would stay
out of that conversation.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span></span><span class="text_exposed_show"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">The
rocket in all its glory. built completely out of Styrofoam, gantry
included. The biggest thing with working with props and explosives is
not to creation projectiles. We used rubber cement and tooth picks to
hold it all together. No matter how big the blast, the foam only travels
so far.</span></span></span></span></span><br />
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down on. On 3, the gantry fell away, and smoke began to bellow. If you
look at the people behind, you can see some of them know what's coming.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br />Unfortunately,
it wasn't to be the Rocket's day. It made a hell of a bang, and I think
some people actually thought it was going to take off. We must have set
them off their game as they lost. Mission accomplished.</span></span></div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-78482337346889877242015-04-19T14:38:00.000-07:002015-04-19T14:42:43.630-07:00Time to catch up. It's been awhile.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well I must admit I've been a little tarty on adding any new posts for awhile, it's been crazy busy to say the least. I did manage to squeeze a little break at Christmas, but it was short lived. It seems the interest in hand lettering is only growing, and at this point, showing no sign of slowing down. Although I do enjoy the resurgence in hand painted signs, I do find it a bit of a challenge to keep up at times. I guess in the big picture, I would rather have too much work, than sit by the phone hoping for it to ring. With the coming of spring, so comes the calls for exterior wall work, and they're already starting to call.<br />
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This is a job I just did for the Reynolds-Alberta Museum. They had recently finished the restoration of a Mogul Stationary Engine, and the only thing left was the pinstriping. Although it's relatively simple striping, based on the original design, it did pose its own set of challenges. Between the rough surface and awkward angles, it can be a little tough to get a nice line going. But with a little patience, and did I mention patience, it can be done. The one thing I've learned being a sign painter after all these years, is that it really pays off to be versatile in the type of work you. It really comes down to mastering your layout and brush skills. Once you feel confident with your skills, you can then decide on the type of work you want to do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivdEGx2KA7Xz5ZQbaui0onacx_X5-QCkbH6iIG7XdN2e335iaCAvnLPSbbu4L2skDPSFunCFQQQeDIZcO6dgPyuVMPq30IP6erlCuBIiTzncDcynlp5qM7dXhiWX7tOWfYEveeN5Ko5o/s1600/Gas-engine-flywheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivdEGx2KA7Xz5ZQbaui0onacx_X5-QCkbH6iIG7XdN2e335iaCAvnLPSbbu4L2skDPSFunCFQQQeDIZcO6dgPyuVMPq30IP6erlCuBIiTzncDcynlp5qM7dXhiWX7tOWfYEveeN5Ko5o/s1600/Gas-engine-flywheel.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
One of the two flywheel for the engine. The thing about old equipment, is everything is heavy. Thankfully they had them mounted on a stand that allowed it to spin freely. Made my job a whole lot easier, and spared me the pain of stretching over a table. <br />
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You can get a sense of how rough the surface is from the picture. It's also is the type of surface that doesn't allow for taping the lines.You would probably spend more time cleaning up the paint bleeds from under the tape than it would be worth. I did use tape, but only as a guild. You want to work with the paint as thick as you can, that way you get nice clean lines.<br />
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I love the simplicity of this stuff. It's made to work. Things don't have to be complicated to work, they just have to be functional. You can't say that about a lot of things today.</div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-70279777321764613432014-11-30T11:51:00.002-08:002014-11-30T12:53:15.400-08:00If you like that "Old Sign" look.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I receive quite a few emails inquiring on how to go about creating different distressed sign looks. I thought it might fun to open a Facebook Group page to talk about the process, and also share information with other that have the same passion. If you have an interest, just follow the link <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/distressedsignworkshop/">The Distressed Sign Workshop</a> You'll have to 'JOIN ' the group, as I've set it up as a closed group. I'll still be posting information on my different projects here, but I thought a group page would be good for interacting with questions / techniques and such. I've confirmed doing another Distressed Sign workshop / February 2015 at Swinton's Art Supplies in Calgary. Follow the link for more information: <a href="http://www.swintonsart.com/instruction/workshops/item/distressed-sign-painting">Swinton's / Destressed Sign Workshop.</a></div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-9864693824338811022014-11-01T16:06:00.004-07:002014-11-03T08:52:54.105-08:00Just a few of my recent projects..<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been a while since I've had a chance to post anything. It's been an interesting and busy time to say the least. I thought I would pick a few projects to write about that you might find of interest. Here's a brief description of the stories I'm working on.<br />
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<b>The 1953 Alco A and B unit graphic re-creation project</b>. I'll go through the steps I took to re-create the Canadian Pacific lettering and numbers for both units. I'll also cover re-creating the Beaver Crest mounted on the nose of the Engine.<br />
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This summer I had the pleasure of doing a sign workshop for the <b>ALHFAM Annual Conference</b>. It was attended by members involved in the running and maintaining of historic parks and villages across North America. The workshop focused the basics of sign painting, and also the re-creating and maintaining historic signs.<br />
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Creating a distressed sign to be used for<b> CJSW's Fund Raising Campaign</b>. I'll explain the designing steps, and also the making of the actual sign used for the campaign. <br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-53073007381969379492014-08-21T14:43:00.001-07:002014-08-21T15:45:46.899-07:00A quick distressed sign.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
There seems to be a lot of interest out there in making distressed signs. With so many ways to make one, it can be a little confusing to say the least. In the big picture, it doesn't really matter how you achieve the look, as long as you enjoy the process. Having a background as a sign painter/ scenic artist in the film industry, I've had the good fortune to take my sign aging skills to a whole different level. In the film industry, it's all about speed and being believable, not to mention, the ability to work on all types of surfaces under extreme conditions. <br />
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Here's a short post on creating a simple aged sign. I'm also working on a more detailed post on creating a similar type of aged sign, but will include more of the process and materials involved. The one thing I always tried to stress when asked about making aged signs is just look at the real thing. You can find many examples around your town or city, or on the internet. You should also start a detailed file on different types of signs, on different surfaces. For colour reference, I use a common fan deck you get from the paint store. Gee...who would have thought it could be that easy. And don't overlook the fact that the colours have long lost their intensity. Always try to start with a muted pallet, it makes the sign look old with little effort.<br />
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I like to play around with different looks, great way to waste time. This sign was more about the aged look than the sign. I start off with a piece of cheap plywood, something with a rough grain. I keep the copy really simple as that's not the focus of the project. I then add an age to the wood, a simple color wash of raw umber and black, nothing fancy. I also apply a release to the wood surface before applying the base colour. I'll go over using release products in the next post. I then coat the board with the base colour and do the layout.<br />
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With the layout done, now it's time to do the lettering and boarder. As I mentioned before, keep it simple. Although the white looks like it's straight white, it's actually a mix of white / raw umber and raw sienna. The lettering took around 15 mins. to do, free hand, The trick is to use the right brush. The paint is just your regular latex house paint in an eggshell sheen. I find eggshell works well for lettering. <br />
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The finished sign. Once the paint had dry, I used warm water and a scrub brush to remove the lettering colour and base colour. With the release applied the the board, it makes it a simple task to remove the base color, thus exposing the aged board, no sanding involved. With a little block aging ( will explain in next post) to tweak the sign, the project is almost done. All that is left is to do a wash coat to settle the colours. Hope you enjoyed the post. Thanks for all your emails, its always nice to hear how many of you enjoy my blog and tolerate my writing skills. Thanks</div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-4349496031725652632014-08-02T12:21:00.002-07:002014-08-02T12:23:59.681-07:00Wow...An award for the historical sign work I do, what an honour.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span class="userContent">A few weeks ago I received a phone call saying
I had been nominated, and had won a Lion Award from the Calgary
Heritage Authority, in the tradespeople / craftspeople category. I was
quite surprised to say the least. It was nice to see the <span class="text_exposed_show">awareness
and the recognition of old signs and lettering, and the craft of hand
painting them. And that it is viewed as an important part in preserving
our history. No digital back then folks!<br /> <br /> On Thursday I attended
the award ceremonies to receive my award. I was 1 of 2 winners in my
category, the other being a Tinsmith for his work in restoring the metal
moldings and architectural details on the many old buildings in our
city, a true craftsman.The event was also attended by a number of
architects and designers involved in restoration work, who were very
interested in the type of work I do. It'll be interesting to see what
comes of it. I also had a chance to joke around with Calgary's Mayor
Nenshi, who I must say, had a great sense of humour. It's been a long
and bumpy road learning my craft, not to mention making a living as a
sign painter, and I wouldn't change it for the world.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1ErQ1zcegbZHhncJ3RBo04yBs6Oybc4xRVuYjMMaXfLePX7PR1VYJfM2VnSqibv0su0Qp6npUM3i6E6PgV4dl0NTufVt3wDoXQ47rxhJLjM9em80LtuCU9aN7o7nZ5B1GT2NMrvTmE0/s1600/Lion-award_Mayor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc1ErQ1zcegbZHhncJ3RBo04yBs6Oybc4xRVuYjMMaXfLePX7PR1VYJfM2VnSqibv0su0Qp6npUM3i6E6PgV4dl0NTufVt3wDoXQ47rxhJLjM9em80LtuCU9aN7o7nZ5B1GT2NMrvTmE0/s1600/Lion-award_Mayor.jpg" height="272" width="400" /></a><span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"> Our City's Mayor Nenshi giving a speech on the important of preserving our city's history. I had a chance to talk with him after the event, and he came across as a really nice person. He mentioned I should maybe hand paint all his re-election signs, He sure has a good sense of humour.</span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show">It's always something to get up in front of a crowd. It's also a good time to make sure your fly is done up. I was also asked if I would like to do a short speech, no pressure there. I decided to talk about the importance of signs, and not letting the craft be forgotten. And any restoration from the past, needs to be done the way it was originally done. Stencils and vinyl weren't around back then. The funny thing is, in 50 years, someone will be restoring the digital and vinyl stuff being done today. I guess that's what you call the full circle.</span></span><br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-45629845378084566092014-07-13T12:47:00.000-07:002014-08-24T19:28:50.445-07:00This time it's real Gold Leaf<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In my last post, I talked about doing faux gold leaf water gilding, this time, it was the real deal. A client of mine wanted an "Old School" gold leaf sign for his high end restaurant, a water gilded gold leaf sign. Done it the traditional way, using a water and gelatin wash to adherer the gold to the glass.<br />
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I started by painting the outline and drop shadow in reverse on the inside of the window. The next step was to apply the gold leaf. It's always fun working on location, sort of. The first problem came when one of the staff decided to come through the door where I was working. I had just finished making a batch of size, and had set it on a ledge using the door closer arms for support. Although I had put signs on the door asking "Please do not use these doors", and also had a ladder blocking the inside, she still decided to use it. Needless to say, everything on the ledge came tumbling down, include the fresh pot of size. I always find interesting, and frustrating, when people don't think that warning signs and such, apply to them. Although she was very apologetic, it didn't change the fact I would have to start over. Even after locking the doors (something I should have done in the first place) people would come up to the door and pull on it, not to mention the pissed off look they gave me because they had to use the other doors, which was 20' away.<br />
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Applying the leaf went smoothly, except for the air from the air exchange blowing the leaf on the cutting pad around, but that' just part of the job. The backing-up and cleanup went just as smooth. In the end, the customer was thrilled with the job, and also amazed with the amount of work that went into doing this type of sign. Hopefully he'll keep that in mind when writing the cheque.<br />
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With the outline and shadow done, it's time to move onto the gilding.<br />
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With the backup done, and excess gold clean off the job is finished. Time to head off on a short, and well deserved vacation. Although it doesn't show up well in the picture, the gold is highly reflective, the true look of a water gilded sign. Nothing else comes close to the look. <br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-14149264353652510342014-05-04T18:10:00.001-07:002014-09-04T07:58:11.301-07:00Faux Gold Leaf window signs for the movie industry.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here's a little faux Gold Leaf window job recently completed for a TV western series. It's not often they want this type of work, but it's a welcome change to the standard sign work that's usually done for film. It was done using the same glass gilding approach you would use on a real gold job, except using dutch gold instead of real gold. Although dutch gold/ bronze leaf is heavier, and is a little tricky to work with, on camera, you can't really tell the difference.<br />
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The first step is to reverse paint the outline with the pattern attached to the outside, making sure to put registration marks so you can line up the pattern when it's time to backup the lettering. If you're not familiar with the process, it means to line up the pattern, and pounce the layout over the leaf. That way, you have a layout to follow. <br />
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With the leaf laid down using a gelatin wash, and the holidays filled in, it's time to do the backup lettering. Because this is done for a western, you don't want a perfect lettering job, you want it to have a little character. There is a difference between painting a sign with character, and painting a bad sign. The funny thing is, they both will work in film. No town ever had perfect signs through out the town. Just check the history pictures and you'll see what I mean.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"> <span style="background-color: white;"> Photo by Randy Janzen Photography...Thanks Bro.</span></span></h4>
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The finished glass installed. A sign like this really stands out, but could also pose a few challenges for the lighting and camera people, but it will definitely be noticed. Thanks for taking the time to drop by. If you have any questions, feel free the contact me. </div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-46553783272043855022014-03-23T13:21:00.003-07:002014-03-24T15:10:55.664-07:00Harley Davidson and the Marlboro Man replica bike project<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With Spring officially here, I thought this would be a timely post to do. I was approached by a new client that was building a replica bike from the movie Harley Davidson and the Marlboro Man. He had contacted me through the company Facebook page inquiring if I would be interested in re-creating the lettering job done on the hero bike, ridden by Micky Rouke. The answer was a quick ... You Bet! Being from the 2 wheeled community, and having watched the movie myself, it was a perfect fit. Not to mention. a great use of the hand lettering skills.<br />
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My client had fabricated the bike from the ground up, and needless to say, I was blown away by the attention to detail. My job was to replicate the lettering and graphics. We decided to stick as close as possible to the lettering done on the original bike. There are other bikes people had built, but I would be only using reference from the movie bike. Whoever had painted the original had put their own touch to the lettering, so it was important for me to try and capture it. There were a few subtle differences in the tank, so I had to improvise on the positioning of the lettering. In the end, the client was thrilled to say the least, and it was a piece that I'm glad to share with you. Here's a few pictures of the work in progress. And I'd like to say a big thank you Andy, for trusting me with a piece of your dream project. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The blank canvas.</td></tr>
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Due to the curved surface, the pattern was applied in separate pieces. This way, you have the luxury to move it around.and adjust to the surface. Another trick I use is to print off part of the layout, instead of redrawing it, and pounce the print. It saves you a little time. And no, it's not cheating, you still have to paint it.<br />
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With the layout in place, it's time to get the brushes out and mix some paint. <br />
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With the orange on, it's time to move onto the outlining. Time to turn up the tunes and get into the outlining zone.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just about there. Next step, paint inline and card detail. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry about the glare, the lettering is really orange. </td></tr>
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The finished job. I was asked to change a few cards to represent some important points in the client's life.</div>
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The finished bike. It's always nice to be part of a custom build. It's the type of job that someone has put their heart and soul into, and they have the trust in you to be part of it. PS... it sounds as good as it looks. Thanks for taking the time to drop by. </div>
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-84481265774194142502014-02-22T12:18:00.001-08:002014-02-22T14:04:55.031-08:00My first" Distressed Sign" workshop.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Photo courtesy of Brian Batista </td></tr>
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After years of thinking and talking about it, I finally decided to put together a Distressed Sign workshop. With the help of my good friend Doug Swinton, who owns Swinton's Art Supplies, it became a reality. I felt there may be an interest with people wanting to learn some of the scenic techniques I've picked up working as a sign painter / scenic artist, for the film industry over the years. With the rising popularity of hand lettering, it seems everyone and their dog is jumping on the bandwagon to hold sign painting workshops. Although I'm sure they can be fun, I don't think you'll learn more than just the basics of hand lettering in a day or two. What they will give you is an insight to the process, brushes and materials, and techniques, used in sign painting. From there, it's up to the students to follow thru on their own. <br />
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I wanted to do a class that would take someone with little, or no sign experience , and have them create something they can take home with them. We decided to make it a 2 day workshop. Day One would cover the basics, layout / brushes / paint and materials. Day Two would cover transferring their layout to the board / lettering, and the best part...wrecking their signs, but hey, that's what the workshop was all about. I didn't want to waste a lot of time on practicing strokes and such, as
that gets old real quick. That's also something they can practice on their
own. The focus of the workshop was to create a distressed sign, not to paint the perfect sign. I also wanted them to have something to take home to hang on their wall.<br />
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I decided to limit the class size to 10 students, which in the end, turned out to be the perfect size. Because this was going to be my first workshop, I felt it was important to make sure I had time for a one on one with each student. That way no one would feel left behind. As luck would have it, the class sold out. They were such a enthusiastic group, they even took their layouts home to work on. Probably not something I would have done with my Saturday night. I also brought a wide selection of brushes and paints to the class, along with a few finished signs so they could see the finished product. I find most people starting are unsure of what type of brushes to use / what kinds of paints and substrates to use, and where to find them. So I put together a small workshop booklet that covered brush practice,
layout rules, color combinations, and where to get suppliers. For the workshop, we would be using water based paints, and the proper brushes for use with the paints. I also spent some time covered oil based paints, such as One Shot and Ronan paints, different types of brushes used, and which ones to use on what surfaces. One of the big high-lites of the class was letting them loose on the electro-pouncer, only two got zapped. All in all, everyone seem to really enjoy the workshop, and the best part was they all took home a finished sign. Due to the interest, and buzz from the class, we've decided to do another workshop in early July or August. Here's just a few pictures from the class, I can't say how much I enjoyed sharing my information with such a talented group of people. I look forward to doing it again. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing with the paint. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the aging process</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You could hear a pin drop, everyone was so focused on their project.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step one. Painting the sign.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most important part is enjoying yourself.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And I think they did.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH9jHSPxIiUHO1_9_6Gnhr7c-53cuYODzxPuJLBt2CrP583we9nTK_26F9sz3j1YceeUNPtZT90hcmqc0gKYcV-2llN8-LrZ_nf7qTDozeU4MIOhTWNRK438h1xu4HHVzxhsWO-rO-HM/s1600/Focused.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH9jHSPxIiUHO1_9_6Gnhr7c-53cuYODzxPuJLBt2CrP583we9nTK_26F9sz3j1YceeUNPtZT90hcmqc0gKYcV-2llN8-LrZ_nf7qTDozeU4MIOhTWNRK438h1xu4HHVzxhsWO-rO-HM/s1600/Focused.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you say "Focused"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwoLSNgpnurIDCIN77QYE1LgPfu4QgTi3gi_pqWwXxXq_M4rcH4F3_Ms97Bxp8qZN7NX1x63_LSDVkfj_SEVCztPPlAZjrFGJvoeNP0NRehr3c-9PM4-dXcpmsbE1-Rnrlc-lFru6cfo/s1600/Brian%2527s-letter-sample_un-aged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwoLSNgpnurIDCIN77QYE1LgPfu4QgTi3gi_pqWwXxXq_M4rcH4F3_Ms97Bxp8qZN7NX1x63_LSDVkfj_SEVCztPPlAZjrFGJvoeNP0NRehr3c-9PM4-dXcpmsbE1-Rnrlc-lFru6cfo/s1600/Brian%2527s-letter-sample_un-aged.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Photo courtesy of Brian Batista </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi13dDViykrOhO8ShtpbqOp8Kz-jjfPExYnonfjdlAaN5zDkb2xbMxBvdHjhjoaqCv7c2agE-jSc90Dk4ReGxKmv4Vyp_h7C1U38nW3IvmO8BPeXffF1u2Hw1-e4Yy11XYSFQuGg1qnBg/s1600/Brian%2527s-letter-sample_aged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi13dDViykrOhO8ShtpbqOp8Kz-jjfPExYnonfjdlAaN5zDkb2xbMxBvdHjhjoaqCv7c2agE-jSc90Dk4ReGxKmv4Vyp_h7C1U38nW3IvmO8BPeXffF1u2Hw1-e4Yy11XYSFQuGg1qnBg/s1600/Brian%2527s-letter-sample_aged.jpg" height="462" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Photo courtesy of Brian Batista</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimEthvCn2HkQeQp1evbyOHqowfzVyAWoYFpe91xl1CZhl5ilx9-_V5js1oA0LTWGl7_Zw-GRQcGKZiKpFGKKTFnbXGbNhehSMSTYQ5_pH42BLdi424ZO2lqj2bCBZgt1M-r0ay437sBmc/s1600/Class-grad-pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimEthvCn2HkQeQp1evbyOHqowfzVyAWoYFpe91xl1CZhl5ilx9-_V5js1oA0LTWGl7_Zw-GRQcGKZiKpFGKKTFnbXGbNhehSMSTYQ5_pH42BLdi424ZO2lqj2bCBZgt1M-r0ay437sBmc/s1600/Class-grad-pic.jpg" height="430" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The happy class at the end of the workshop. </td></tr>
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Thanks for taking the time to drop by. If you have an interest in attending one of the workshops, just drop me a line. I'll make sure to let you know when and where. Also, watch for my new upcoming video blogs.<br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-73302315977180362262013-12-07T13:52:00.002-08:002013-12-07T14:00:19.201-08:00It's not a sign, but it is hand painted.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I received a call from a production company wanting some scenery for a set. They needed a 5' x 8' waterfall painting from a reference photo they had. The turnaround was tight, only one week, that included picking up the materials / prepping the panel, and finalizing artwork and details. But hey, that's what a good challenge is all about. The substrate I used was Alum-Panel (same as Dibond), which was available in a 5' x 10' sheet. I decided to use artist acrylic due to to tight deadline, plus I like painting with them. The beauty of working with acrylics is the speed that they dry, plus they're water based and have great color. The reference they provided was reasonably good, but it's only the starting point. Once you start, the painting takes on a life of it's own.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRctLrlnsiY5PTwGjCZ49juOlre1WmnZv0Q_kR-omdcM28sZWPxZ_Z1rfT24pYLkm1BrFggxNHzRQm1ibCBJ7lhvDROIqGj0tdunUp9tIOrHKH6AV1AIrg3D9GdsL_sTNlcMIWSeuaBY/s1600/Waterfall-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtRctLrlnsiY5PTwGjCZ49juOlre1WmnZv0Q_kR-omdcM28sZWPxZ_Z1rfT24pYLkm1BrFggxNHzRQm1ibCBJ7lhvDROIqGj0tdunUp9tIOrHKH6AV1AIrg3D9GdsL_sTNlcMIWSeuaBY/s400/Waterfall-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I start by sanding and priming the panel with B/M Fresh Start. This product is designed to adhere to the enamel factory finish on the panel. The next step is to do a rough layout so I can block in the values. For this step I use black gesso. I picked up this technique from a workshop I did with a well known Canadian artist named <a href="http://www.mikesvob.com/">Mike Svob.</a> Just click on his name to check out his website. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuhQts4IxzAX5D3bOWKIGT8Nztk5U8LoqKg5qx10SNqlaQU-KrmqZCiNZPYLsvHpDRIXduplu2dEFYG6DmzxuO-3ubhTfQc-oc-QuET9WlLXQqDObdJjGMKrA-pIBYAITyOHcffawGPQ/s1600/Waterfall-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuhQts4IxzAX5D3bOWKIGT8Nztk5U8LoqKg5qx10SNqlaQU-KrmqZCiNZPYLsvHpDRIXduplu2dEFYG6DmzxuO-3ubhTfQc-oc-QuET9WlLXQqDObdJjGMKrA-pIBYAITyOHcffawGPQ/s400/Waterfall-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Now that I have the basic layout and values established, I can start to add color. This is where the fun begins. The nice thing with using artist acrylics is the speed you can work , and on this project, I can use all the help I can get. It's also amazing how far a small tube of paint can go when pallet mixing.<br />
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With the color added, it starts to take shape. One important thing to keep in mind is the end use of the painting. It will be used as background for a scene being filmed, not a fine art painting for a gallery or home. You still have to make it impressive, but careful not to get bogged down in detail. It's always a fine line when doing this type of work. Paint the big picture and add detail as time allows. It helps to take some of the stress out of the job.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kp8InZqa6ZoSKHUzh0TF_iicI0fXhGC308jix2JXTata_A-zS9cv-1PupzlpIj0a4QVnlZ5c4PK7D8i2TOS4qkKMC1OWc13AIrT30P8SK1t0GJpNQcCY8UOPxCbuFp0sgUJ5ucUzn_c/s1600/Waterfall-finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kp8InZqa6ZoSKHUzh0TF_iicI0fXhGC308jix2JXTata_A-zS9cv-1PupzlpIj0a4QVnlZ5c4PK7D8i2TOS4qkKMC1OWc13AIrT30P8SK1t0GJpNQcCY8UOPxCbuFp0sgUJ5ucUzn_c/s640/Waterfall-finished.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The finished painting. Overall, the job went off without a hitch, and was ready for pick-up on the promised date. Although I enjoy the process of painting the artwork, I also enjoy watching it go out the door, as that means it's time to get paid. I'd rather be a working artist instead of a staving artist, I've tried the starving part, and it wasn't much fun.<br />
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A shameless promo shot to give you a sense of scale. All in all, it was nice to do something other than signs. It never hurts to challenge yourself. No pain...no gain. Thanks for taking the time to drop by.<br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-62473031157332942702013-11-15T13:02:00.002-08:002013-11-15T13:05:31.034-08:00It's Official...My first Distressed Sign Workshop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After years of painting and distressing signs for the film industry, I decided to put together a workshop. It will be a 2 day workshop held at Swinton's Art Studios. The class will be limited to 12 students, to make sure I can do some one one one. I get a lot of inquirers in regard to the painting and aging processes I use on movie sets, so it seemed the perfect fit. So if your in the Calgary area, or like to travel, this may be of interest to you. I was told yesterday that its half booked, so there may not be a lot of time left. If it's popular, I may do another one down the road. You can get more information at: <a href="http://www.swintonsart.com/instruction/workshops/item/distressed-sign-painting">http://www.swintonsart.com/instruction/workshops/item/distressed-sign-painting</a><br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-31641216114405403032013-11-11T12:37:00.002-08:002013-11-11T17:46:10.598-08:00Painting Highlights on Cast Letters<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I recently did a job for a client that collects and restores old gas pumps and different types of memorabilia. He had a Texaco pump base that he wanted the lettering and logo highlighted. Anyone who's involved with collecting or restoration will have to deal with this at some point. Although it's not a really complicated process, it does take time and patience, it also it helps to use the right brushes and paint. The paints I use are for painting signs. One Shot, or Ronan lettering enamels are the brand I use. One Shot is available from stores selling sign supplies and such, Ronan is readily available in the states, but only from one suppler in Canada carries it. Brushes can be a little difficult to find, but can be found online. If you are planning to clear coat the piece after, you'll need to use a hardener made for the lettering enamel. One Shot makes a hardener that works with both brands. As for brushes, I use liner brushes and sign quills, as they hold a nice edge, and have good control. Most of the brushes you get from the local art store aren't suitable for this type of work, and will only add frustration to process. It's amazing how much easier a job becomes when you use the right tools. The process is the same whether it's a gas pump or a piece of equipment, and it really adds a "WOW" factor to the project.<br />
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This is the base my client wanted the high-lights on. I can't stress enough about adding hardener if it is going to be cleared. If you don't, the clear will attack the lettering enamel. If you're planning to clear with an enamel based product, you won't need the hardener. For this job, I didn't have to worry, as it wasn't going to be cleared. Most of the projects I work on, they use urethane, so hardener is a must. Care must also be taken with the first few coats, which should be dusted on to prevent it for attacking the lettering enamel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD3iYP8FdzOyA3RZecJVB67t8vaqmNWABchkDmRfw1YF2vdrLnCiL4yfrVBoN_sIOb3sE-mo-M7ixyj1KTlAlR1yGWLdej20OdO-OqRc_uI44oaw9Lf8WscTPlU06joqFDQwlzxCVOQCU/s1600/Working_high-lite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD3iYP8FdzOyA3RZecJVB67t8vaqmNWABchkDmRfw1YF2vdrLnCiL4yfrVBoN_sIOb3sE-mo-M7ixyj1KTlAlR1yGWLdej20OdO-OqRc_uI44oaw9Lf8WscTPlU06joqFDQwlzxCVOQCU/s400/Working_high-lite.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Time to start highlighting. For this I use a liner brush, as it is narrow and doesn't fan out as much as a quill. The trick is to stay in the center of the letter. Once you get the hang of it, it's just a matter of being patient, and watch the line width. Cast letters are far from perfect, so you may have the odd challenge with straight lines and curves, but hey, that's part of the fun. If you have to second coat, depending on the color, you already have the letters established, and it goes quickly. <br />
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With the white finished, it's time to move onto the logos. This part can be a little more challenging, as you will be dealing with different shapes, not to mention the missing details. This piece had a poor casting on the word Texaco, and also the Reg. Trademark copy. The trick is to just keep it clean.<br />
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Now the piece starts to come to life. Care must be taken when painting ovals and such, as a sloppy job will ruin all the hard work you've done on the lettering. If you make a mistake, just take a rag with some paint thinner, and wipe it off. It's just that simple. Better to start again than try to work a bad line. People only see the final piece, not all of the challenges you had doing it, so take your time and do it right.What's that old saying again...oh ya "Practice makes Perfect" So don't worry, it's only paint.<br />
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A picture of the finished piece. My client was thrilled to say the least. It really does bring out the beauty of an industrial piece of equipment. With just a little paint, and a little more patience, you can turn the average piece into a show piece. Hope this helps. If you have any questions on this project, or any of the others, just drop me a line. Thanks for taking the time to stop by.</div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-3019527856369735142013-09-01T11:54:00.000-07:002013-09-01T19:45:27.848-07:00A simple Gold Leaf sign<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sometimes they don't have to be fancy, just effective. I recently did a sign for the Best of Seven Barber Shop that does it all "Old School", complete with straight razor cuts, and yes, shoe shines. I felt they needed something that got your attention, but not too over the top. Nothing seems to work together better than some stained wood, a lot of varnish and Gold Leaf, a true winning combination. The nice thing about a sign like this is I get to use my skills in wood working / paint finishing and hand lettering. That's a big change from painting signs that look old and faded for the film industry. Although I didn't have a chance to film me doing the actual work, I did get some pictures of the sign a different stages of completion. When it was finished, I had the added bonus of a client dropping by and liking the look so much they ordered a similar type of sign for the historic building where they work. It's sort of like fishing, put something shiny out there and see what bits.<br />
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The first step once you finished the sign blank is to transfer the layout. I like to use a pounce pattern for this type of sign as it produces a clean layout to follow. Although you could lay it out on the blank, why bother. <br />
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Once you have the layout transferred, it's time to get on with applying the size for the Gold Leaf. I don't worry about transferring the outline or drop shadow as I'll eyeball them in after I apply the leaf.<br />
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I used a mixture of Rolco quick size, and a bit of One Shot Chrome Yellow for the lettering. Adding a little color helps when doing the lettering so you can see what your doing. The size on it's own can be a little difficult to see as it's transparent. Be careful not to overwork the lettering as it will show up in the finish gild. You don't have to be real precise with the corners when lettering because you can clean them up with the outline. You should also be careful if you have to push back the size, as the gold will want to stick to it.<br />
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The first step done, now it's time for the outline and shadow. At this stage you have two directions you can take. One is to brush varnish over the Gold, the second is to leave it and hope you don't screw up with the outline. Getting paint on the leaf is not a good thing as it will leave a stain. I find clearing the leaf kills the brilliance of the gold. But there are many applications where it's necessary, such as in high traffic areas, or on a vehicle that is going to be washed. This sign will be on a wall in the shop, so it should be fine.<br />
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The sign is almost finished at this point. I managed to make it without going into the gold. The only thing left is to permanently attach the trim and add the boarder. Although I could get away without one, I feel it finishes off the sign, just my personal preference. The other thing is to check that you didn't miss any strokes on the outline, like I did on the "N". It may sound basic, but it's easy to do. Better to catch it now instead of when it's installed<br />
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The finished product. Everything on the sign was hand painted, including the boarder, with no tape or stencils being used in the process. Hope you enjoyed the post. Now it's time to get onto my other projects that are waiting, and I do have some interesting ones on the go. Thanks for dropping by.</div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-43464414557120798982013-08-11T16:14:00.000-07:002013-08-12T15:13:29.589-07:00Another Aged Sign Job<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I just finished another of my favorite types of sign jobs, the distressed sign. A good client of mine recently renovated their Pub in Edmonton, and asked if I would do a distressed sign in the front entrance. Being one of my favorite type of signs to do, I asked what was the address and off I went. Part of the fun of my job is the road trips, I've always enjoyed traveling for work, regardless of the distance. I rolled into Edmonton around 11 am, and had the pattern on by 12. After recording the National wall job with my iphone, I thought I might make another video of this job. Although this one doesn't show me lettering, it does show the steps. I still have work to do when shooting these videos, but the more I do, the better I get... I hope. The sign was done using regular latex house paint, and then using the clear mixing base to cut the color as it makes it more transparent. I will usually start by "cutting-in" the letters and boarder (paint around the letter instead of filling it in) as I have more control on the transparency of the sign. By doing it this way, you don't make the white to bright. On that note, the white is actually a greyed down white to keep in the value scale of the background. To finish it off, I mix some warm tones to "Block Age" the surface and bring out the grain. It also helps to soften the sign so it doesn't hit you in the face when you walk in the door. In the end, I was happy with the look, and so was the client, which is the most important part. All that was left for me to do was to turn up the tunes and head for home. On another note, I've had some requests about putting together a workshop, just wondering how much interest there is out there. Drop me a line if you have an interest and I'll see what I can do. Thanks.<br />
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The finished sign. All hand lettered, no tape or stencils were harmed in the making of this sign.<br />
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A short video on the making of the sign. </div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-32291872920381690202013-08-05T13:57:00.003-07:002013-08-05T20:53:48.859-07:00Hand Painted Sign for the National Bar.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I just completed a job for one of my clients, and thought it would make a good post for the blog. It was a typical wall job downtown Calgary. I'm not a big fan of working downtown due to parking and such, but I do like painting signs. I also thought I would use my iphone to record the process. I recently retired my trusty Motorola Razor for the new iphone 5, and decided to try out the camera for both its still and video functions. I must admit it worked well. It was a straight forward wall job, nothing fancy. I decided I would layout the star by hand and use patterns for the copy. With the star being 12' high, it made no sense to use a pattern, instead just a level / tape measure and a piece of chalk was used. Once you find the center of the wall, it's all just measurements. The wall was painted with a semi gloss latex, so to eliminate any problems I used the same paint product for the lettering. <br />
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Looking up at my blank canvas. They all start the same. The first thing I do is establish the horizontal center. This job would have looked better at the top of the wall, but had a permit issue. I'm not a big fan of heights, but am willing to overlook this small detail when it comes to making money. It doesn't look that high when looking at it from the ground, but is a different story when on the lift. <br />
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Star layout completed. Layout done "Old School" using a level / tape measure and chalk. First I drew a vertical line, then a series of horizontal lines to get my points. From there it was just a matter of connecting the lines. One of the tricks I use is to use masking tape to make sure the lines run straight from the points. I work by myself on most of these jobs so I don't have an extra pair of hands. I could also use a chalk line, but they can be a pain to anchor, and also remove. Everyone has a different way to do things, this method works well for me.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just to give you an idea of the tight quarters I had to work in. It was a busy alley with a lot of traffic, so I had little room to park my truck. But hey, I didn't have to pay for parking. Just on a side note, Calgary has one of the most expensive Downtown parking rates in the world.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Next, I layout the copy. I used patterns for this step as it saves time, and gives me the freedom to move the layout around to suit the space. The layout provided by the Architect was different than what I ended up going with. One reason being the the permit, it stipulated the height I had to start the sign at, also to prevent graffiti. Tagging is always a big issue when working in the downtown core. You also have to be aware of how it reads in the space, what looks good in a drawing may not look the same on the wall. <br />
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The finished wall. Overall, the job went off without a hitch, though the heat was a bit of an issue. The day I started was overcast with a chance of rain. I don't usually start if there's a chance of rain due to possibly of losing the layout, but I felt lucky. The next two days for the lettering and re-coat seen temperatures in the high 20s. With the wall facing south, it was hot to say the least. I thought I could smell bacon cooking, then realized it was me. One of the big problems working on a hot wall is that it bakes the paint into the brush, no matter how wet you try to keep them. In the end, it means more time at cleanup as you have to soak the brushes in methyl hydrate to get the dried paint out. <br />
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Here's a little video I made of the job. I decided to give the iphone 5 video recorder a shot, and must admit it worked out not too bad. Forgive the camera shake and the odd shot out of frame, but I was both camera man and sign painter. I just shot another little video of a distressed sign job I did in Edmonton, and applied what I learned from this one. Watch for that post coming soon.. Thanks for dropping by. </div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-34910943084040806442013-06-13T09:21:00.001-07:002013-06-15T18:55:20.703-07:00Hand Painted signs of Costa Rica<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I just returned from a vacation in Costa Rica, and thought I would do a post on the hand painted signs I had seen. I have spent years perfecting my craft as a sign painter, but must admit that I enjoyed the visual appeal of their signs. Although digital printing is everywhere, the hand painted signs are the ones that got my attention. The small streets were over run with signs as everybody wanted you to stop at their shop. Most of the digital stuff didn't look like it was fairing well in the sun, and had little zip to them. The hand painted stuff seemed to take on a life of it's own, showing the personality of the sign artist loud and clear. Although a lot of the signs broke most of the rules of sign painting, the one they didn't break was getting the message across on what they were trying to say.<br />
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In
most cases the proper use of spacing and letter structure was
non-existing, as they would put "what-ever where-ever" to make the sign
work. They have a raw beauty to them that I think is being lost in
today's signs. I don't think they used patterns or projectors for most of the work. Just walk up to the wall and as Larry the Cable Guy would say " Get er Done"<br />
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I think the signs were more about the message than the sign itself,. opening the door to creative freedom and artist expression. Another contributing factor would be the poverty, the average Costa Rician lives on less than $6000.00 a year. They seem to have this " we can fix and do anything " attitude that would also explain the look of the signs. <br />
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The small back streets were crowded and small, so getting the message out could be quite a challenge. As I usually do when I travel, I like to get off the beaten path and explore. Although I find this exciting, it can also be a little dangerous as you really start to stand out as a tourist, my wife was a little nervous to say the least.<br />
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It was an interesting mix of signs on the streets, between the hand painted and digital stuff. Some of the hand painted signs were done by someone who obviously possessed hand lettering skills, while others were done by shop owners or an amateur sign artist. In the end, that's what gives their streets the life and charm I enjoyed. <br />
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Here's just a few examples of their street signs. Some are from the city centre in Liberia, the others from the resort areas around Del Coca. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HCjeqoXiXw8E7rYskwScFiip9sOXKhWRHv-_UGgl88kjRy_DXkMhHlo1zpVTvcIP-n8RiRog_dIaodjfC6Vlqvp3jR8l5jIxAX8FZC05UjTtyjDCsTUaHH6sTqqHBOAI5QpUPnAvRbc/s1600/Image-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HCjeqoXiXw8E7rYskwScFiip9sOXKhWRHv-_UGgl88kjRy_DXkMhHlo1zpVTvcIP-n8RiRog_dIaodjfC6Vlqvp3jR8l5jIxAX8FZC05UjTtyjDCsTUaHH6sTqqHBOAI5QpUPnAvRbc/s640/Image-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVftMm1NsK0HT_bRCFW0JNw4C3DSu2jehShqlvX3-38HJ_ty1cN4rNx-_Y0EHUyneWXokoKld0aUyUh9DqKl_-juLLs0_1lTYs3hsJ1_NCymvcJZnr7VXcIU1am9QwVVxbs-01gAys9XM/s1600/Image-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVftMm1NsK0HT_bRCFW0JNw4C3DSu2jehShqlvX3-38HJ_ty1cN4rNx-_Y0EHUyneWXokoKld0aUyUh9DqKl_-juLLs0_1lTYs3hsJ1_NCymvcJZnr7VXcIU1am9QwVVxbs-01gAys9XM/s400/Image-16.jpg" width="400" /></a> It definitely was an interesting mix. I"m sure there are some excellent sign painters around Costa Rica, but I think the digital age has also taken hold, as it was everywhere. And like everywhere, there's a mix of digital done well, and a lot not so well. While waiting for my wife at a grocery store, I watched two guys apply digital window graphics for a Coors Light beer ad. When they finished, it had little more appeal than the blank window that they started with.<br />
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These little Soda stands were everywhere, great place to sit and have a cold beer and bite to eat. All and all, I found most of the people to be quite friendly and helpful, although the language thing was a bit of a challenge. It took me 15 minutes to find out what time a store was closing, lots of hand gestures and staring at each other. Thank god someone who spoke a little English finally stepped in or I would have found out by when they turned off the lights and pushed me out the door. It seems that learning just enough Spanish to ask for a beer only takes you so far.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This coastal wall was obviously done by someone who had hand lettering skills. Nice way to spend your day, hang out at the beach and paint signs. Does it get any better.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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Their use of color sure added a lot of life and vibrancy to the small congested streets. They really did have a life of their own. </div>
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Not every sign was well done, but you do know where to get a phone, or your camera fixed.</div>
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I love the use of space on this one. It got my attention, so in the big picture, it's an effective sign. Hopefully you found my post on the hand painted signs of Costa Rica interesting. It's refreshing to see the artistry and hand lettering from different cultures around the world. Like the old expression goes, sign painting is the second oldest profession. Thanks for taking the time to drop by. </div>
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-5794409764985370052013-05-19T11:22:00.001-07:002013-06-19T14:57:28.876-07:00Boy, has it ever been busy.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sorry I haven't posted for a while, it's been very very busy couple of months. Between working on a Feature Film, doing signs for a TV series, and a out of town wall job, not to mention my regular clients, it's been a crazy. I would like to take a minute to thank all of you for dropping by. I apologizes to those that have sent an email that I may not have responded to, I do try to send a thank you email, but may miss a few when it gets crazy.<br />
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Here's a little sample of what I've been working over the last few months. I'll do a few more posts in regard to details of the projects, but for now, here's a few pictures with brief descriptions.<br />
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Here's a few pictures from a Feature Film I worked on back in March and April. It was a German Film Company that filmed part of a movie in Alberta. The town we used doubled as a small North Dakota town from the 1920s. I was hired as the Paint Coordinator, but also designed and helped paint the signs. Due to the nature of my job, I could only spend a little time actually painting the signs, but had a good friend, and great sign painter Stu Friesen, help out. That's Stu on the left, and Robert on the right. Robert was part of the German crew, trying his hand at lettering. It was a great experience working with the German crew, but the weather was brutal. When I get a chance, I'll do a full write up.<br />
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Here's a few pictures of canvas signs that I painted for a TV series. The Production Designer wanted them done by hand. No computer or projector was harmed in the making of these signs, just a ruler and piece of charcoal. He wanted a looser look that you can only get with this approach. One of the biggest challenges in lettering on the raw canvas is it's very hard on the brushes, and no room for mistakes. If you've ever tried to lettering on raw canvas, you'll know what I mean. I'm just getting ready to start a new sign package that will be painted on wooden sign blanks, should go a little smoother.<br />
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This is a wall job I just finished for a new client up in Edmonton. They actually found me on the internet. They were a great group to work with, plus the beer and food was a big bonus. I look forward to working with them in the future. This is just a small sample of the jobs that I've been involve with over the last few months, I post more in the near future. Talk to you all soon. Thanks</div>
Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-79665316447936285022013-03-10T14:47:00.005-07:002013-06-15T18:50:20.749-07:00Painting Picture Vehicles for the Film Industry <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When I started in the film industry, I mostly painted signs. But because of my background as a painter the Auto body industry, it also gave me some new opportunities. Well, one thing leads to another, and before I knew it, I was painting tanks and helicopters. It started when a pilot and his crew ran into trouble trying to paint their own helicopter. The production designer (Ken Adams of the early James Bond films) suggested I give them a hand. This started me down the road to painting picture vehicles and aircraft for films and commercials. I must admit they I always felt a little nervous when it came to aircraft painting. You have to be very aware of how serious it could be if something goes wrong.<br />
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Painting vehicles and aircraft can definitely be a challenge. It can range from a temporary paint job that has to be removed, to a paint jobs that are permanent, or it doesn't really matter as the vehicle will be destroyed in the end ( my favorite one). Sometimes in involves lettering and graphic, other times, create the military look, or just make it look weathered and old. I've always found the film industry a place where you can put all your skills to use. Just be careful what you tell them you can do, you will be tested. Here's a few pictures of jobs I've been involved with. Thanks for taking the time to stop by.<br />
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Here's a few working photos of the hummers and snowmobiles that were painted for the movie "Inception" They were in Alberta filming part of the movie, and asked if I could get a crew together to do the paint. All the camouflage was done by hand, using a water based paint and brushes. We didn't have to worry about the paint jobs lasting, as they were going to be destroyed in the end. You have to love the film business. <br />
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We only had a few days to get everything painted, so painting by brush saved a lot time by not having to mask anything. The production designer was great to work with. He went ahead of us and did the layouts That way we could just focus on the painting. It doesn't happen that often, but it sure is nice when it does.<br />
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This is one of the trucks from the movie "Brokeback Mountain" We started with a perfectly good paint job. Then we created the faded and weathered look over the existing paint. We worked on top of a wax coat so we could remove the paint when filming was done. Unfortunately, the person cleaning it decided to use scrub pads and trashed the paint job. In the end, it all worked out as the owner was really hoping to get a new paint job . <br />
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This is a old school flame job I did for a movie called "Santa Baby" It was for the Santa character who was going through his mid life crisis. When I was working on the movie Inception, I found out the person in charge of the snowmobiles had ended up with it. It was funny to see it again. Glad I used One Shot and clear..<br />
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Here's a few pictures of military vehicles done the the movie" The Forth War" I started out painting just the signs. But through a turn of events ended up painting military vehicles and a helicopter. Made for some long days, but also a nice pay cheque.<br />
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This was for a Miller Beer commercial. First it was sprayed with the product Sign Strip so it could be removed after filming. Then we hand painted the stripes and lettering. You couldn't use any tape, as that would run the risk of lifting the paint. That could be a very dangerous situation in flight. I moved away from using Sign Strip for that very reason.<br />
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This is a helicopter I painted for the TV show "Harsh Realm" It was a temporary paint job using floor wax and tempera paint. This was a very cool helicopter work on, similar to a high performance sports car.<br />
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Another temporary paint job for the movie "Chill Factor" I ended up painting 2 Hueys and a Gazelle for the show. A few years later I heard the fellow who owned the Hueys had been killed in a crash. It was sad to hear as he was such a nice person. It also reminded me of how important it is to make sure nothing I do interferes in the operation of the helicopter.<br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4514113330427398421.post-9827845377812139522013-02-09T13:10:00.002-08:002013-02-09T13:10:17.221-08:00Thinking of a new "Step by Step"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I get asked a lot about how I go about getting that "Aged "look. I was thinking about doing a "Step by Step" on how to achieve a weathered sign. Just wondering if there's any interest? If there is, let me know, and I'll put something together. Here's a few pictures of what I'm talking about. Thanks.<br />
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Rick Janzenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01298524839694116865noreply@blogger.com7